I had some help with it from a friend at the Fender Custom Shop. I was / am really happy with how that one turned out. The seafoam green Duo Sonic II was the opposite approach - I did that one first, and really tried to get it as nice and shiny as I could. I tried my hand at distressing / relicing the shell pink Musicmaster. You can see pictures of them right here if you'd like. I've done three refinishes - one in Seafoam Green, one in Fiesta Red, and one in Shell Pink. The other companies may be equally accurate with their versions of that color - I just don't know. I can't vouch for color accuracy for all three, but the ReRanch paints that I have used seem to be pretty spot-on, and it's not something that's proprietary and exclusive to Fender - it is a DuPont paint color (Duco 2590-H), and was used by Cadillac for cars before Fender ever used it. How cool is that? You can definitely get Dakota Red from all three of those companies. It sounds like it would be a relatively easy job, and when you're done, you'll have something you can really be proud of AND play. You really need to start with a body that's in pristine shape - any flaws, scratches and dings in the wood will be apparent in the final finish. You'll have to pay more if they need to strip the current body and do any other prep work - that will largely depend on what they used for the black paint (nitro, enamel, polyurethane, etc.), and the current condition of the guitar. They're all well-known companies though, and the pics I've seen of their work looks promising. I can't vouch for their work because I've never had a refinish done by any of them. Here's a few companies that do refinishing. They also have lots of great advice / instructions for doing the job right.Īre you in the USA? Nitrocellulose lacquer can't be shipped by air, so if you're overseas, or in Alaska or Hawaii, getting paint can be harder. The ReRanch stuff, which I have used, is quite good. Ohio Valley Nitro and Gracey's nitro are also available, but I have not tried paint from either of them. You can get Dakota Red nitro lacquer from Guitar ReRanch, and sometimes on eBay and Amazon. If the guitar's a player-grade instrument (and if it has been refinished, that's what I'd consider it), you're not going to harm the value by doing a DIY refinish job on it. It's easier than it sounds to do a decent job refinishing your own guitar. It's a time-consuming process (takes about a month or so from start to finish - no pun intended) and a lot of that time is taken up waiting for the paint to harden before final sanding and polishing it out. or, you can try your hand at doing it yourself. There's a few people / companies out there that do refinishing work. I do hope that other people try this out, though, and you can credit either Bill Lawrence, who thought of it on purpose, or Byron Tennant, who bent a switch terminal one time and eventually reverse-engineered his mistake. All I've got to do is solder a switch lug to ground, so I'm set! I haven't messed with guitar wiring at all recently, as I've been busy designing fuzzes and boosts, but it's string-changing time on my avatar axe, and I was thinking I should revisit/ figure out for sure the aforementioned mod. Please excuse me it I'm being vague or confusing. That much of a bass cut is probably undesirable with just one pickup selected, so tying it exclusively to the out-of-phase position should be most practical. I think you could just replace one of the crisscrossed jumpers (neck hot) with a cap to do the trick. That's what I thought about the phase switch. Therefore minimizing the bass cancellation inherent in a parallel, out-of-phase combination. just the treble and harmonics from the middle or bridge pickup, the neck pickup's full-frequency signal.Ģ. So 4.7 nano it is!Īnd with one pickup selected, you are right. 0047=4.7 nano, and less digits=a good thing. In the states, I am told we don't talk much about nanofarads.
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